Basic Buttermilk Scones for Tea (or Breakfast)

I find it very comical that Julia Child has become vogue and fashionable again because of that ridiculous book Julie & Julia. I never even knew that she had become unfashionable. Shows what I know, I guess, because I have always been an ardent fan of hers. And really, how could one not be? You don't even need to cook to be a huge admirer. The woman was truly magnificent.

I suppose that, like everybody else, when you first begin to dabble with Mastering the Art of French Cooking, you make the first recipe in the book — Potage Parmentier, which is potato and leek soup. When we lived in New Jersey a million years ago, I would make this soup all the time — because not only is it simple and good for you, it is cheap to make. Considering I was in graduate school and Michael was in law school at the time, this was very helpful indeed. And if we ever got down about feeling poor, we could console ourselves with the fact that our dinner was French and therefore very fancy. Or, at least I could. Michael was typically just glad when I laid off the lentils for a bit. Incidentally, lentils are another cheap (and very healthy, mind you) soup-making ingredient.

Anyway, what I am trying to get at here (in a not very efficient way) is that many times the simplest recipes are often the best. And that is where buttermilk scones comes in.

I have long been obsessed with the idea of Afternoon Tea, or High Tea, if you will. Not only is it clearly the time of day when one can use a pick-me-up, but there is almost something ceremonious about it. And the idea of deliberately pausing from the daily chaos in order to do this is ingenious. Michael knows a federal appellate judge (who hails out of Texas) who takes High Tea every day. This judge has the right idea, too, because he refuses all phone calls and such during this time. Smart man — no wonder he's got the job he does.

So anyway, getting back to the marvelous Mrs. Child. A handful of years ago I discovered the book Baking with Julia, which was also done as a PBS series. In this, Julia works with the country's best bakers and gives myriad recipes, techniques, and what have you. It is actually a great idea — she scouted out the person who was best known for a particular baked good(s) and invited them into her kitchen to do a demonstration. And the recipe range is spectacular: from Whole Wheat Bread and Bagels, to Espresso Profiteroles and Chocolate Truffle Tartlets, to Pizza Rustica and Milanese Torta. See what I mean? Spectacular. And those are just a few of the recipes.

The recipe for Buttermilk Scones in Baking with Julia is hands-down the best scone recipe I have ever come across. They are a breeze to make, which is nice if you are serving them for afternoon tea, and even nicer if you are serving them for breakfast. Breakfast is now when they usually appear on our table. However, I have recently learned that the baked scones freeze very well. So whatever you have left from your lovely breakfast table you can put in a few layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil and put in your freezer. Then a week or so later you can pull them out in the morning and have them for your tea later. Just be sure to have lots of butter and jam on hand. I have always preferred Bonne Maman's Four Fruit Preserves, although their Strawberry or Raspberry Preserves are also very good. You can find Bonne Maman at most any grocery store, within reason.

Scones

3 cups all-purpose flour

⅓ cup sugar

2 ½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon salt

1 ½ stick cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 cup (approximately) buttermilk

1 tablespoon grated orange or lemon zest

½ stick unsalted butter, melted, for brushing

¼ cup sugar, for dusting

Preheat oven to 425°, and position the racks into thirds in the oven.

Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium size bowl. Add the cold butter and mix it with your hands until it resembles coarse cornmeal. (You could also use a pastry cutter, but your hands are really the best option.) It's OK if there are a few bigger pieces of butter remaining because they add to the flakiness of the scones.

Pour in the buttermilk and the zest and mix with a fork until it is just combined. Do not be tempted to mix it until it looks pretty! Gather the dough into a ball and press it gently so that everything sticks together. Place on a lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Don't go crazy here. When it comes to this dough — truly, less is more.

At this point I flatten the dough until it is about ¾ of an inch thick. Pull out the handy-dandy scone (or cookie) cutter and go to work. Place the scones on a baking sheet, lined with parchment, brush them with melted butter, and sprinkle with a little bit of sugar. Alternatively, you could form the dough into a large circle and cut into triangles, like a pie or a pizza or something. However, my favorite happens to be the rounded scone.

Bake for 10-12 minutes, until both the tops and bottoms are golden. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly. Best served warm.

If you pull these from the freezer, then let them defrost as they are on the counter. When ready to serve them, take off the foil and bake for 5 minutes at 350°. (Recipe from Marion Cunningham via Baking with Julia, by Dorie Greenspan, William Morrow and Co, 1996.)