Wild Mushroom Risotto that is Dining Room Table Worthy

Last week our new dining room table and chairs arrived; a gorgeous Lorts farmhouse-style table and chairs that we ordered from a shop in North Carolina several months ago. Now before you start saying, 'Well, la-di-da!', let me tell you about our old table. It was a tiny, tiled affair that I 'borrowed' from my mom right after I graduated from high school and somehow never managed to return. It sat four people, rather uncomfortably, and two of the chairs were so rickety that you had to quite literally pound them back into place before anyone sat on them. That meant that whenever we would have people over for dinner, we would all essentially plop on the floor in the living room — there being nowhere else to go.

However, we have discovered that since Miss Milia came along, for the first time ever, we have people coming over to the house — and actually staying. This is all very strange for us. We are very much used to getting into the car and going to my sister's house for any kind of gathering. Because even though our table was always small (and, therefore, unaccommodating), our house is not much bigger.

So anyway, now we have a lovely (and rather la-di-da, I admit) table. It is perfect for our small little family and maybe two or three more. Any more than that will be back on the living room floor again, I'm afraid. And that's alright.

A few nights ago I decided to make a delicious mushroom risotto that actually warranted sitting at the new dining table. So after toiling away in the kitchen for goodness knows how long, dinner was ready. And what did we do? We sat on the floor in front of the telly (that's in the study), the way we always do when Dancing With the Blasted Stars is on, of course. (I know. I should be embarrassed to admit that we watch that show. However, Derek Hough's Futuristic Paso Doble was a work of art, if I do say so myself.)

As far as the risotto goes, it may be some of the best I've ever had. (Odd, considering the recipe came from a French cookbook.) Because many of the key ingredients cook separately (retaining both textures and flavors), it allows for the dish to maintain its flair. Also, it is beautiful to look at once you actually put it on your plate.

The risotto is simple enough to make, but it requires several separate steps; difficult to do when you are also trying to get your 20 month old down for bed. However, Emilia ate every bite for lunch the next day and even asked for more. And, to be perfectly honest, nothing warms my heart more than that. Incidentally, it is the perfect dish to make for company, which I fully intend to do next time anyone comes in town. And I would even go so far as to say that it should probably be enjoyed while sitting at a proper table.

Frédéric Anton's Risotto with Wild Mushrooms

8 paper-thin slices of pancetta

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 large mushrooms (I used chanterelle, but you could also use porcini, portobello, or whatever else you can find), cleaned, trimmed, and sliced

sea slat

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

white pepper

minced chervil, tarragon, or parsley (I used parsley because tarragon makes me ill, and chervil somehow sounded too fancy)

2 cups chicken broth

Risotto

5 cups chicken broth, barely simmering in a separate pot

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 large clove garlic, halved lengthwise

1 shallot, peeled and minced

sea salt

1 ½ cups arborio rice

½ cup grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons heavy cream

white pepper

extra cheese and pepper for garnish

Preheat broiler, and line a baking sheet with pancetta. Broil until cooked through and sizzling, about 1-3 minutes, depending on the thickness of your pancetta. Remove to papertowels and let drain. Turn off the oven and return the pancetta to the oven to keep warm.

In a large skillet over moderate heat, heat the olive oil until hot. Add the mushrooms and season with salt. Saute for 1-2 minutes, until the mushrooms begin to release their juices. Transfer to a sieve and drain. Wipe out your pan with papertowels. Return the skillet to the heat, melt the butter, and return the mushrooms to the pan. Season with salt and pepper, and let cook for a few minutes. Remove from the heat and toss with your herbs. Put the mushrooms in the warm oven with the pancetta.

Reduce the 2 cups of chicken stock. (This part I intend to skip next time, as it seemed like just more dishes to wash, and I'm still unclear how it really enhanced the dish.) Bring the stock to a boil for 10-12 minutes, until reduced to about ½ cup. Keep warm. (Wells suggests using a double-broiler for this. Again, more dishes — not to mention a pain in the arse. But you do what you want.)

For the risotto: In a large saucepan, heat your broth. In another pan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the garlic to perfume the fat. Add the shallots and salt to taste, and sweat -- cook, lid on, low heat, for about 3-4 minutes, until translucent. Discard the garlic and add the rice. Stir, coating the rice thoroughly, and cook for 2 minutes. When the rice is glistening, add your first ladleful of broth. Stir constantly until well absorbed. Add another ladleful, and repeat, and repeat, and repeat. This should take about 17 minutes in all. The rice will become creamy and tender to the bite — almost resembling a porridge.

Remove from the heat and add the cream, oil, and cheese. Taste for seasoning. Once plated, garnish with the mushrooms, pancetta, reduced broth, and freshly grated (or shaved) parmesan. Serve immediately. Serves 4. (Recipe from: The Paris Cookbook by Patricia Wells, Harper Collins, 2001.)