Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Rouge Coco (And a Brief History of Cosmetics in the US)


My moleskin notebook was filled up ages ago, and as much as I loved the little thing, I've taken to writing in a spiral notebook (very similar to the ones used during my university years: one subject with a fat pocket in the front). Anyway, I pulled it out a week or so ago and, as I opened it up, a whole pile of magazine and newspaper clippings showered my feet.

I used to be a magazine fiend in my earlier days, and would hoard stack after stack around our old apartments and such. I suppose it was kind of in the manner of those two crazy brothers in New York who filled, quite literally, their whole apartment with old newspapers they refused to throw out. And when they finally died, it was hard just to get into the place to retrieve their bodies. Or something like that anyway.

Luckily for all involved my penchant for magazine reading has waned quite drastically over the years, as my taste has become much more discerning. And rather than create an obstacle course throughout the house, I now tear out single pages from magazines to save, and toss the rest in recycling. (All cooking magazines are exempt from this discussion. As are Garnet Hill, Olive Juice, and Boden catalogs.) Anyway, on the top of this little stack of clippings was a very recent write-up on Chanel's new line of lipsticks that are being introduced this month: Rouge Coco. Very exciting news, indeed.

Several months ago there was a marvelous PBS documentary on the telly called The Powder and the Glory. It was all about the two women who essentially pioneered womens cosmetics in the United States: Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden. It was fascinating. First of all, the two women were vicious competitors and loathed eachother unequivocally. They even refused to ever meet, despite the fact that they lived a block or two away from each other in New York City. Aside from that, it is all about the making of the cosmetic industry in this country. Elizabeth Arden became best known for her Twelve Hour Cream, her Red Door Spas, and a rather nasty disposition; while Rubinstein became known for her Crème Valaze, art and jewelry collection, and quick-witted tongue. Despite being very upscale for the time (and therefore expensive), both businesses weathered the great depression brilliantly. Yes, they both had to close a few shops here and there, but that is nothing considering the time.

How did they do this, you ask? Lipstick. I find it so interesting that in times of recession women will consistently splash out on a decent tube of lipstick. And I'm not talking about Revlon, to be sure, but something much nicer. It makes complete sense, really. No, you cannot take that trip to, I don't know, St. Moritz or something. And it may not be in your best interest to get your hair done every other week while wearing that new Burberry trench. But a new tube of lipstick? Well, that's a different story then, now isn't it? It is a small, simple luxury that makes you feel, not to mention look, a whole lot better. Thank goodness for that. And this brings me back to the glorious Chanel.

The Rouge Coco line that has just hit the counters definitely falls into this category. It will make you feel better just seeing it in your handbag. (Try to tell me that their logo does not put a smile on your face. And I'll know if you're lying.) The concept behind it is harkening back to the days when lipstick was a huge deal; before everyone became obsessed with these silly glosses. The line takes us back to the days of Coco Chanel herself, which was not actually that long ago. They have brought back original and classic colors, and given them names that all mean something within the brand. For instance, one of the lipsticks is called 'Gabrielle', which was Chanel's real name — Coco was just a nickname. And they have reinstated the metal tube, as opposed to plastic. (This is certainly a selling point for me. However, my other Chanel's seem to look exactly the same. And no, it is not because they are originals, thank you very much.)

And so, even though I need another tube of lipstick like a need a hole in the head, Emilia and I found ourselves at the Chanel counter Monday morning. We both tried some on (glides on like a dream, by the way) and settled on two colors: Mademoiselle and Lune Rousse. The latter is my personal favorite as it happens to look spectacular on me. Red always does though. And there you go, a little bit of old-fashioned glamour (that still doesn't grow on trees), but puts a big (nicely painted) smile right across my face.

***As a side note: The movie Coco Before Chanel is marvelous and completely worth watching. I saw it one night last week while Michael had a late meeting. Audrey Tatou is perfect, and the movie is visually stunning from beginning to end. That's my two cents, anyway.

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